This durable, resilient material requires no polishing to produce a high gloss. One coat, also known as a flood coat is all that is usually required for a deep attractive finish, however, two or more coats may be applied one over the other by simply wiping the surface with rubbing alcohol prior to re-coating. Disposable rubber or vinyl gloves and protective eye wear are recommended.
Mixing containers must have smooth, flat walls and a flat bottom. Do not use wax coated containers as the wax will break off during mixing and will contaminate your coating. The stir stick must have a straight edge like a paint paddle to allow the user to scrape sides and bottom of mixing container thoroughly while mixing.
A disposable nylon brush works well to coat edges and apply product to curved surfaces. Large projects: A small hand-held propane torch works well to remove bubbles from mixing. For existing surfaces previously finished with products such as polyurethane, the surface must be lightly sanded and wiped clean with rubbing alcohol. All surfaces must be free of wax, grease or oil. Coverage will vary according to surface and method of application.
Level the surface. The surface should be up off the work area about 2 inches to allow the coating to drip freely off the sides of the item being coated. Put plastic sheeting, wax paper or multiple layers of newspaper underneath the item being coated to catch drips. It is better to mix a little too much, rather than too little.
Unmixed components should remain in original containers. Both resin and hardener can be left in open containers but should be closed for long storage. The shelf life of this compound is approximately 1 year. All polymer compounds react in some way to the presence of humidity.
If bottles become overheated, allow them to cool before using. Never mix hot resin and hardener together! Failure to measure equal amounts of resin and hardener will result in soft or sticky surface. Do not simply pour the contents of both bottles and expect properly measured amounts, always measure! With the resin and hardener measured, use a stir stick and mix together for two full minutes. During mixing, use the stir stick to scrape the sides and bottom of your mixing container.
Occasionally scrape the mixture from your stir stick back into the solution. After two full minutes of mixing, pour the contents from the first container into a sec- Cup 1 ond container.
Using a new stir stick, mix the contents of this second container another minute, again scraping sides of container and stir stick.
Immediately pour from the Cup 2 second container onto your project. Note: Cup 2 Inadequate measuring and mixing is the most common reason for soft or sticky spots.
Warning: Never use an electric drill with a mixing attachment to mix product. Also, due to rapid heat build up with large mixes, do not attempt to mix more than one gallon per mix! Pour, Do Not Wait! Pour as soon as thoroughly mixed. Carefully pour over the surface in an even pattern. Spread where necessary using a piece of stiff paper to help liquid flow together.
It seems clearer than D2T. Mixing extremely well makes a lot of sense. It is thin enough that bubbles work out well with a brush. And you don't want to have any doubts when it takes a full day to cure. Guys I just watched a video and why the heck I never thought of this after all of these years of squirting a 3 second amount in a pill cup and I have never had a big issue with it curing and etc or tacky with devcon 5 min epoxy.
This guy was using a scale you know the grain scale like the ones you use for reloading or your broadheads, you can get them off ebay for hardly nothing. So you tare your pill cup and let's say you pour 10 grains then you tare the scale back to zero then put the 2nd part at 10 grains or etc.
I have a scale already, I just ordered some of the e - tex lite I have never tried it I have always used devcon. Guys also use hair dryer to warm up any epoxy against the bottle and when your done coating I always hair dryer the whole lure then put it in turner, if you might have added to much the heat will level it out.
Plus I only put enough epoxy to coat the lure without having a dry spot also have a bendable light were you can put it close to lure with a pair of hemostasis clamped to bill it's easier to coat the lure that way and I turn it in the light to check for dry spots. I even use the hemostasis with zip ties in bbq turner and clip to bill instead of alligator clips or using wire to hook eyes or etc.
Hope this helps I seen the scale thing and had to share Epoxy cures by a chemical reaction at the molecular level and if there are excess molecules of resin or hardener present, they remain unbonded. Far enough out of kilter, and the end result is tacky epoxy, or at least a coating that is not as strong as it could have been, or a coating that will yellow faster than otherwise.
I only use diamond clear. Let e-tex sit for about 8 min and it won't be so runny when you brush it on your baits, brush off the excess also. You will need 2 coats anyway. Ditto, mix it good, slowly and scraping the sides of the cup. I believe the package says mix for two minutes. Also scrape off the stick on the lip of the cup once in a while.
Lit sit a few minutes after mixing, bubbles come to the top. Breath on top of the etex in the cup before you start brushing to release a bunch of bubbles. If your brush has long hairs, cut them shorter so you don't load up the brush too much.
After applying etex, hit it with some heat to release any bubbles caused by the brush, especially if it's begun to gel a bit. I keep reading not to use a wood mixing stick, or a flat one. I do both, doesn't seem to matter.
I usually do ten lures at a time, and mix two smaller batches, rather than a larger one. It's easier to properly mix smaller amounts, and it avoids having to deal with trying to brush on thickening epoxy on the last lures. I like how the flat edge scrapes the sides of the cup really well. I have read that a round mixing tool is better though, as it won't create bubbles as much when mixing.
I just ran into issues on my last two batches of lures. I have never heard of etex going bad, and this batch is maybe a year old. I know the fish don't care, and i'm not trying to sell them anyway. Hey bonepile, I also use wood stir sticks. It does not add bubbles or any other issues.
I don't think it's bad Etex either. I also use a lot of glitter, I have found like yourself that certain glitters repel E-tex more than others. Personally I find the next coat catches it fine , however I'm considering cleaning the glitter that is most prone to this in soapy water.
I wonder if it may be down to the actual surface finish of the glitter though, I'm going to clean the glitter most prone to this and see if it makes any difference in a day or two, will give you a shout with result. I have some pics in gallery of glitter perch patterns , the gold glitter one's use the glitter I have found most prone to this. I'll stick some pics of other patterns using different glitters up later. Try adding the glitter to Createx transparent base for your last paint coat, before you epoxy.
You can brush it on, as long as you have really dried your paint scheme first, and you don't overbrush it. I may have found a culprit. I went out to the paint-desk last night and painted another lure. I was sure everything was the same as usual, but you never know. Once surface is coated and cured, use a sanding block and sand through coating on bottom edge. Is Envirotex Lite an epoxy? Envirotex Lite is a water clear reactive polymer compound. This durable, resilient material requires no polishing to produce a high gloss.
How do I clean my Envirotex Lite? Cure: All soft, sticky material must be removed! Use a paint scraper or chisel, then wipe area clean with solvent and lint free cloth. Use the two-container mix method and repour entire area. Is Envirotex Lite heat resistant? Envirotex Lite is heat resistant, however, if should not be intentionally subjected to high temperatures such as cigarettes, cooking utensils, etc. Envirotex Lite is water and alcohol proof. Can you mix paint with epoxy resin?
Mixing paints and acrylics with epoxy is not recommended. Can you mix oil paint with resin? Oil Paints Once it's thoroughly mixed though, the color is beautiful. Since it requires more mixing time, I recommend already having the oil paint in your mixing cup before you mix up your resin. It seems like a small step, but time can be critical when working with resin.
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